Handmade Jar Candles Make Great Gifts!
One thing that everyone who makes handmade jar candles in clear glass jars battles is "wet spots." They're actually not "wet", it's just a place where part of the wax has separated from the jar, and part is still sticking. There is no way to completely prevent them, but one way to minimize them is to pre-heat your jars. If you're just making one or two, you can warm them with a heat gun. If you're making more than that, put the jars on a cookie sheet and place them into a lightly warm oven - about 150 degrees is right - just warm enough to heat the jars.
You can use many different kinds of containers for your candles: glasses, jars, buckets, cups, bowls and more. It just has to be leak proof and fire proof, add color and fragrances, and you've got a nearly unlimited variety of possibilities.
For this project, you'll need:
Containers of some sort (I use 8 oz. standard jelly jars from the grocery store)
A container wax (I use beeswax or soy wax but there are many great ones to choose from)
Appropriate wick for your handmade jar candles and wax(I use HTP 105 or ECO wicks)
Color and essential oil as desired
Wick bars or a plastic straw to keep the wick centered
Basic candle making equipment
A basic understanding of candle making safety
Handmade Jar Candles Safety
Securing the wicks to the bottom of your handmade jar candle container is important so they stay centered and do not shift while you are pouring the wax. The EZ Wick Setter is a convenient way to make sure the wicks are centered. Add the Glue Dot or hot glue to the bottom of the wick tab, then use the EZ Wick Setter to firmly attach the wick to the container.
If you do not have an EZ Wick Setter, you can also do this using a straw to hold the wick, dab a bit of hot glue onto the bottom of the wick tab and press it firmly into the center of your container.
It's important that it be centered well or the candle will not burn well.
You can also use the double-sided "glue dots" or "wick-stickums" - they work the same as the hot glue, but are easier.
Attach your wick bars, or plastic straws to keep the wicks centered.
Weigh out the wax and melt it your melting pot.
If you need to figure out just how much wax you'll need for your handmade jar candles, use this
Container Calculator
The 8 oz jelly jar candles I made took about 6 - 8 ounces of wax.
The wax for your handmade jar candle, will need to be heated to 170o – 180o in a double boiler. To create a double boiler, put about an inch of water in the sauce pan, and then place the pouring pot in the water. It is a good idea to add an inexpensive metal trivet or cookie cutter under the pouring pot to elevate it. Doing this ensures the wax is not receiving direct heat from any side. Adjust the heat to a medium-low setting. The water needs to be boiling, but it does not have to come to a rolling boil. If the water is at a rolling boil, it may splatter out of the pan. Check the temperature of the wax occasionally to make certain it is not getting too hot. Adjust the temperature as needed. While the wax is melting you can continue with the next steps, but make sure that the wax is never left unattended.
Once the wax has reached the proper temperature, you are ready to add the fragrance oil. Depending on the wax you are using for your handmade jar candle, you could add 0.5 – 1.5 ounces of fragrance per pound of wax. It is most common to add 1 ounce of fragrance per pound of wax. The fragrance is most accurately measured by weight, but you can also use a tablespoon to measure it if the scale you have does not measure a small amount precisely. A tablespoon is equal to 0.5 ounce. Pour the fragrance into the wax and stir it.
Next, add the desired amount of dye. If using dye blocks, the block will melt into the wax more quickly if it is cut into small pieces. After adding the desired amount, stir the mixture until it is blended thoroughly.
If using liquid dyes, just add the desired amount of drops. Since you can not remove dye once it has been added, it should be added sparingly, especially if you are trying to achieve a light color. You can always add a little more if it is not dark enough. After adding the desired amount, stir the mixture until it is blended thoroughly.
When you look at the liquid wax, it will usually look much darker than when it has completely cooled. To test the color for your handmade jar candle, you can drip a small amount of wax onto a paper plate or paper towel. Make sure not to drip the hot wax on your hands. Allow it to harden, and you will be able to see a more accurate representation of the color. You can then add more dye if desired.
At this point, you can add UV stabilizer if you choose. The addition of UV stabilizer will help keep the color from fading if the candles are exposed to UV rays or fluorescent lighting. You would add about ½ teaspoon per pound of wax.
Let the wax cool down to about 150-160 degrees.
Place the jars close together in a grouping on the counter. This helps the jars to cool more slowly - which also helps combat the "wet spots."
Slowly pour the wax into the jars. Be careful not to overfill them - and be sure to leave a little extra wax in case you need to do a second pour. (This will depend on your wax and temperatures.)
After pouring, make sure that all of your wicks are well centered.
Let the candles cool slowly.
Once the candles are fully cooled - several hours/overnight - trim the wicks to about 1/4".
Let your handmade jar candles cure for a couple days before burning them to get the best scent throw and burning.
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